Deformations, dents and bumps on the car bodywork occur from damage while parked incidents, accidents, and bad luck. Small dents can be corrected easily with filler. Here you have to decide case-by-case, if you can correct the dents or if you rather buy and fit in cheap replacement parts and simply paint them afterwards. Do it yourself! Believe in yourself! You are capable to repair it yourself! Take my Tips – it’s easy!

Description of the damage: Dents, bumps and deformations. Your car is blemished!

Quick fix: flatten the damaged area as well as possible. Sand off rust and paint completely, extensively and very carefully with sandpaper. Apply filling compound and after 20 minutes sand it dry roughly (P120) until the area is in its original state again. Ground it with spray filler and waterproof sandpaper (P500 – P800) and create an absolutely carefully sanded surface, paint it subsequently and seal it with clear lacquer, polish it and preserve it with hard wax.

The first step is to get the car bodywork in its original state again. To achieve this goal, you are allowed to use anything imaginable: flat iron, hammer, ski pole, screwdriver, soup-ladle, etc… The more exact you flatten the dent, the less filler you need and the better the result. I’m cleaning the damaged area thoroughly from paint and rust. After that, wrap dry sandpaper – rough grit P60 – around a sandpaper block (made out of cork) and sand off the area in and around the dent/deformation absolutely carefully and extensively. The paint has to be sanded off well and not the slightest trace of rust must be seen!
Now, clean the area thoroughly with silicone remover.


Apply now filler onto the brightly polished, impeccable sanded, and with silicone remover cleaned area. Sticking perfectly on metal is one of the filler’s characteristics. Spread the filler on a piece of cardboard and add the correct amount of hardener. (Have a look at the video clip in order to get the right dosage.) Mix both components well and spread them generously and extensively over the perforated area. After 30 minutes the filler is cured and the remaining filler can be sanded dry with rough sandpaper and so, recreate the original state of the car bodywork.

Please protect everything that is not meant to be grounded nor painted from spray mist! Just use an old newspaper and masking tape.

After having sanded everything evenly, I’m correcting existing rusty patches and sanding marks with filler or spray filler. In order to mix the components well, you have to shake the paint-can thoroughly (for about 5 min). Whether everything is mixed perfectly indicates a small ball inside the can. You hear the rattle of the mixing ball. When the noise changes to a softer tingle it means that the mixture is fine. Now, attach the spraymaster to the paint-can. It works like a spray gun and facilitates the work enormously. Attention! Though priming coat, filler and paint, according to the manufacturers, are harmless, they are not meant for your lungs – therefore use a protective mask – just to be on the safe side!
Now, apply evenly several light coats of Filler (about 3 – 5). Air out each layer for about 2 – 3 minutes. Hold the can about 30 cm (1 foot) away from the surface.  The ideal temperature is 15 – 20 °C (60 – 80 °F).

After 30 minutes, the last layer of filler should be cured and I’m going to sand the remaining filler with waterproof sandpaper(P500), a sponge and a bucket of water. I’m going to show you in the video clip how easy this is!

To work carefully is very important here. Each uneven area has to be sanded smooth. Don’t sand down to the filler or to the sheet metal, otherwise you’ll have to ground this area again.

Unevenness can easily be noticed, just run over the sanded area with your palm. If your hand can’t feel any defect, you’ve done a good job. It’s not necessary to isolate the filler, it is ready for painting. We applied the priming coat, let it dry and cure (about 20 minutes), and now, finally, bring colour into play – with the spray paint! Shake the spray paint thoroughly for 5 minutes until you hear the agitator ball move easily and it touching the can. Attach the Spraymaster to the paint can and apply evenly several light coats of paint. Hold the can about 30 cm (1 foot) away from the surface.  The ideal temperature is 15 – 20 °C (60 – 80 °F). Attention! Don’t spray on too much paint at once, in order to prevent the paint from running down and causing “tears”. In the video clip I’m going to show you step by step how to do it correctly. You will be surprised how easy it is.

Let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then apply the clear lacquer over the paint layer. Shake the clear lacquer equally well as the spray paint and apply several light coats (minimum 5). Let each layer of clear lacquer air out. The clear lacquer protects the metallic particles from oxidation, lets the paint shine and acts as an absolutely necessary protective layer. Attention! If you use universal pain you don’t need clear lacquer. If you aren’t sure, Max has the answer to your question!

After about one hour, the clear lacquer should be hard enough to remove the masking paper… and  - voilà! The result is impressive!
A small edge at the transition is no problem! After 2 or 3 days the clear lacquer should be cured completely and you can simply sand off the edge very carefully with waterproof sandpaper grit P2000 and highly polish it, afterwards.

Naturally, you are going to polish the whole car now and preserve it with hard wax. The result: Everything is shiny and like new! With the Max’s know-how, repairing is easy, fun and saves you a lot of money!