Small scratches in the paint and scars don't pose a problem anymore! Undo the damage to the paintwork that would cost a lot of money in an autoshop with repair paint. Max gives you a hint how to remove rust properly. By the way, many professionals work with spray paint.

Description of the damage: eye-catching, extensive, rusty car bodywork. Ugly but not hopeless!

Quick fix: remove rust and chipped off, loose pieces of paint completely and extensively with dry sandpaper, rough grit. Clean the area thoroughly with Silicone remover. In this case, we use Spray paints. Therefore, the surrounding area has to be protected from the spray mist. Cover everything carefully with newspaper and masking tape (see video clip).
Fill up the occurred sanding marks and rusty patches with filler or body filler, sand and ground them and polish them with spray paint.

The first, hardest and most important task is to remove the rust. Therefore, I wrap dry sandpaper, rough grit P60 around a sandpaper block (made out of cork) and sand the rusty spots extensively and absolutely shiny. There is no rust to be seen anymore! The former patch of rust has to shine like chrome! After having finished sanding everything carefully go and have a brake!

Now, for the first time, we are going to use spray paint: it’s time for the anti-rust protection-priming coat.
In order to mix the components well, you have to shake the paint-can thoroughly for a long time (for about 5 min). You will know everything is mixed perfectly based on the sound of the small mixing ball inside. When the noise changes to a softer tingle it means that the mixture is fine. The Spraymaster, which is simply attached to the paint-can, facilitates the work enormously. It works like a spray gun. Attention! Though priming coat, filler and paint, according to the manufacturers, are harmless, they are not meant for your lungs – therefore use a protective mask– just to be on the safe side!

Apply light coats of paint (3 or 5) of the anti-rust protection priming coat. Air out each layer for about 2 – 3 minutes. Hold the can about 30 cm (1 foot) away from the surface.  The ideal temperature is 15 – 20 °C (60 – 80 °F).

After applying the priming coat you apply the paint and the clear lacquer. But neither the former nor the latter are adapted for covering sanding marks.

Therefore, use an abrasive fabric or a waterproof sandpaper, grit P500 – P800 in order to sand the priming coat. To achieve a sound result it is important to work carefully. Each uneven area has to be sanded smooth. Attention! Who sands down to the filler or to the sheet metal needs to ground this area again.
Next Stepp: spray paint, anti-rust protection priming coat and Spraymaster. Shake the spray paint thoroughly for 5 minutes until you hear the agitator ball move easily and that it touches the can.  Attach to the Spraymaster and apply evenly several light coats of paint. Hold the can about 30 cm (1 foot) away from the surface.  The ideal temperature is 15 – 20 °C (60 – 80 °F). Attention! Don’t spray on too much paint at once, in order to prevent the paint from running down and causing “tears”. Have a look how to do it correctly in the video clip!

Let it dry for about 30 minutes, then apply the clear lacquer over the paint layer. Shake the clear lacquer equally well as the spray paint and apply several light coats (minimum 5). Air out each layer of clear lacquer for about 2 – 3 minutes. The clear lacquer protects the metallic particles from oxidation, lets the paint shine and acts as an absolutely necessary protective layer. Attention! If you use universal paint you don’t need clear lacquer. If you aren’t sure, simply ask Max.!

After about one hour, the clear lacquer should be hard enough and you can remove the masking paper… and be proud of your work! In case you notice a small edge on the transition -  no problem! After 2 or 3 days the clear lacquer should be cured completely and you can simply sand off the edge very carefully with waterproof sandpaper P2000“ and highly polish it, afterwards.

In order to let everything shine, polish the whole car and preserve it with hard wax. The result is impressive: you repaired it yourself, you saved money and again like new – that’s worth it – and it feels good!